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faithfulparsleySoftware and s/w Development

Nov 2, 2013 (4 years and 6 months ago)








Last revision



Turbine instructions

1/9 scale F
106 Length 90” span 51” Empty wt 23.5 lb.

This aircraft was designed from Detail and S
cale F
106. The only deviation was to
move the main landing gear forward to make rotation smoother. Scale location is

1/9 scale was used to fit the 12 to 18 lb. turbines. The nose, from the air inlets
forward is removable. The wing is one piece a
nd is removable.

Use care in building and flying this aircraft. It can be destroyed in flight by poor
building and or flying habits.

SAFE operations are the RESPONSIBILITY of the

Use the air tanks for adjusting the C.G.


See the web site

Aluminum elevon pushrods.

Fuel tanks 45 oz per side.

Quick fueling connectors.

Fuel filters.

Powermax can trigger valve

Wash all the glass parts with water (in the shower is fine) to remove release
agent that is on
the parts.





Sand the formers to fit the inside radius of the glass parts.


A protective film may be on the canopy, remove for installation.

Spar to foam fit

Spar slot # 3 may need to be lengthened to fit full length doubler.

Sand s
par slots for a no drag fit, too tight will bend the wing. Glue 3/8" sq. balsa
spacers in the spar slot to keep the foam from moving as the top is sheeted. Place
them back about .1" from butt and in the center.

Add the1/8” plywood doublers on each of the

three rear spars one at a time.


C/L_____ Center line

TE______ Trailing edge

LE______ Leading edge

CA______ Instant glue

CF______ Carbon fiber

CG______ Center of gravity

GLUE____ Use what you like

PLY______ Plywood

RTV_____ Silicon glue, not
recommended for turbines, Jet
A attacks it.

nut____ Blind nut

Sand the inside of the glass parts to remove any glass slivers that you may
find when you are not looking for them.


Plywood alignment fixture for nose bolt guide tubes has holes larger

than the tubes
going through. Draw a circle on the glass using this guide and enlarge holes
starting in the center till tube fits. This way you can keep the holes centered.

Wing spacers

Foam blocks marked “JIG” are used to space the wings apart while in
stalling spars.

Place one behind the front spar and one in front of the rear spar. Add shims to the
spacer at the rear so elevon spars are straight.




The fin will most likely be bent in shipping.

Use a heat gun to straighten. Make sure the leading edg
e is straight. As
well as the vertical alignment to the speed brakes. Sight down the top
to see if the top of the fin is in line with the fuselage. Make sure it is

It is built in the mold and the two halves are assembled before removing
from the m
old so it was straight at one time. It will return to it’s
molded shape when heated. Work upside down and work from the
fuselage down.

Read hints at end. START HERE (add nose)

Wash all glass parts well to remove any release agent that WILL BE on the
Water work best. Take it in the shower. Tape across the wing saddle to keep the
width as shown on the plans. Install the aft nose attach doubler.
Make sure it fits
the flange flat.

Sand to fit. Epoxy in place. Due to variations in lay
up the f
radius will vary. Sanding a 45 degree bevel on the edge will help. Measure the holes in
the plywood by looking through the glass flange and measure the distance to the
outside of the glass flange. Center the plywood and mark the plywood if it sticks
or grind back the glass to the edge of the plywood so you can relocate this part with
glue on it as you can not see the holes then. .

Location the fuel tank vent line

I located mine on the right side 13/16" right of the lower nose bolt hole measured
nter to center. Thin the plywood down one layer to give better engagement. If you
have calipers you may want to measure both sides and thin both sides. Remember
you have a nut in the nose. The parts are .300 thick so a flange of .320 would be safe.

After t
he nose attach is finished drill a hole a little small and in the center of your
thinned out flange. File out to make a better hole, seal with CA and check fit. Take the
round plywood disk, place it over the hose barbs and rotate gently until you feel the
patterns line up, then press on. After testing fit put a small bead of epoxy around edge
of the wooden disk, starting with the female and press in place, place in vertical and
let epoxy set. With nose on, do the male, position vertical and let set.

Cut 1
/2" plywood pattern or use sticks across the open end to keep the flange straight.
Use small C
clamps to hold them in place. To put the wood nuts together put two
drops of thick CA on one part and line up the two with wax paper over your fingers.
Tap the

part ¼
20. Run some thin C.A. into the wooden nuts to harden the threads.
Retap. See drawing V2 for tapping fixture .




Drill nose doubler holes from glass side and drill holes a little small. File them to a ¼”
tight fit. Then align and tape nose on to

the rear fuselage. Mark the six hole locations
on the rear fuselage glass flange from the nose. Take the nose off and drill undersize
holes in the glass. Put nose back on and file the two dowel holes to size. You will
need to cut the tang (square part
) of the file off to use it inside the nose. Fit the
alignment dowels at this time and keep them tight. Take the nose off and install the
fuselage nose doublers for a test fit. Align on the dowels. Use a slow epoxy and glue
in place. Do not over glue.

Put a drop of oil on the bolts. Install the bolts and wooden nuts. Or use C
clamps are better as there is no danger of getting glue in the bolt holes. Note top bolts
install from the nose and the bottom bolts from the fuselage. Do not glue
nuts at this
time. We are using this for alignment only. Clamp the front and rear doublers together
with small c
clamps. Remove bolts and dowels. Clean removed parts. After the glue
sets, file nose dowel holes for nice fit. Remove the nose and inst
all the alignment
dowels. They should stick inside about 1/8”. Install the nose. Glue the dowels in the aft
fuselage. Use a gob of epoxy over the end. Make sure the bolts will go in, if not file
hole. With fuselage apart install the bolt head spacer
(wood). Use the end of a ¼” bolt
as a guide. Put two drops of gap filling CA on the spacer and press into place. Remove
bolt. Clean bolt. Flow CA around spacer. Install the bolt guide tubes next. See picture
#25 and #2. Add the wood nuts, just tack
with CA. Finish the glue job after bolts are

PITOT MAST Picture 26

Build a shaft from plastic. It is to slide into the fuselage when not needed for protection.
The grommet will hold it in place. Size the hole in the grommet with file for fit. Sand
nose flat to a little less than ¼” diameter. Drill a 3/16” hole in the nose. It should angle
down a little as the pitot tube points down a little. Enlarge with the file and keep it
. Cut tang off file and run backwards in drill.

Test the fit to

the plastic tube.
Install the pitot former then the grommet and crosspiece using the guide.

The pitot shaft was angled down somewhat. A dimension is shown on the plans. Use a
strait shaft while locating the grommet holder position and gluing it in plac
e. Install the
bulkhead with the slot running vertical. Put the grommet in the plywood removed from
the bulkhead and slip it over a ¼” shaft. Fit this in aft alignment holder and through the
nose. The grommet holder glues to the bulkhead at 90 degrees to t
he slot. When you
can fit this in place put a dab of slow setting glue at each end of the grommet holder and
slide into place. Set the nose section down nose low so the glue will not run away. You
can add a ¼” sq. stick to the top of the rear alignment bra
cket so it can be clamped to
the fuselage. The Pitot can be used as the fuel tank vent. Push a 1/8” brass tube down
the center that has a ½” length of 5/32” brass tube soldered over the end to make it
bigger. This is the end the vent hose will attach to. E
poxy a 5/32” aluminum tube to the
nose for the silver look. It is pointed down hill so any venting of fuel would not run into
the aircraft. Use fuelproof glue!




Trim the flange around the cockpit opening to leave 3/8” on the sides round the
corners. Sand t
hem with 320 wet or dry.

NOSE DOOR See picture #20

Cut the nose wheel door out use the glass centerline and draw the door 2” wide. The
door starts 13.3/4” from the rear of the nose section and runs forward to 21.3/4” from
the rear. The corners have a ½”

radius. Place a piece of black electrical tape down the
edge of the door for a guide to cut next to. Use the small E
Xacto saw blade. Grind the
blade narrow to cut around the corners. Be neat!

Have the nose wheel asm. on the retract unit as you fit and g
lue the mounting
plates in place. Have the nose on the rear fuselage when you glue in the retract plate.
Support the fuselage with a block across the wing saddle and adjust the nose leg

I angled the front of the mounting plate up so the wheels
will clear the fuselage.
Not too much or the down location will be too slanted forward. Use three layers of
medium glass to fillet the mount to the fuselage side. The 180 degree nose door is
now the standard. Glue the hinges on the door first, put a 1/16
” shim under the center
hinge. Use a wire through all three hinges for best alignment. The center hinge is just
outside and the two ends out more. Try to have straight line. Put the retract arm pivot
on the door,1/4" up and to the hinge side of center line
. Build retract unit and tack
glue in place. Bend up wires to test the location on the door. Use small screw to hold
pivot through the glass. Sand the shim in thickness for the plastic link fit.

Canopy and latch. Picture 23 and 25

Use a single 3/16" do
wel in the front of the canopy and a hole in the airframe. Fit
the canopy to allow for paint. Install side aligners if you like. Do not forces the nose fit
you could break it. I use the spring from a old click type ballpoint pen to make a latch
and holds t
he rotating beacon for the handle. Cut the canopy on the lines after the
latching is done. Glue in one glass at a time after paint, latch in place while glue set.

ECU Picture 9

The ECU , battery , header tank and speed control is carried in the nose of the

fuselage. Put the speed control in a foam block glued to the top. Try all the pieces
before you commit. Use a Velcro to hold the ECU to the front of header tank. The
battery is on the bottom and the plug comes from the rear around the battery to the




First thing to do to the rear fuselage.

**** Make sure you control the width of the fuselage with tape. It WILL sag open and
the wing cut out will not fit. Keep the tape away from the wing hold down locations.
More tape is better!! Width is shown

on side view at two locations, 12" back from wing
cut out it is 8.5/8" and 20" back it is 7.1/2" .

Install the rear wing hold down former first.
The front is 12.3/8” aft

of the
front of the belly pan. Next install the two bypass mounts. Space the rear by

length of the mount. Get them as parallel as you can by measuring from the flange.
Make them parallel by gluing shims on top of the formers.


Sand the hatch and fuselage. Make sure you have room for paint on the ends as
well as the bottom. Trim the side flange of the hatch to ¼” and the ends to 3/8”. Use
a small drum sander and make nice round corners. Cut a notch in the center at each
end for the centering stick. Do not cut into the face of the hatch, just the bottom
ange. We use a full length stick for centering and cut the center of the stick out later.
Use two foam rubber blocks to push the stick out of the hatch when you are ready to
glue the stick in place. Try this before you glue. Put the foam in place then the
next hold the stick in place with thin plywood or cardboard and slide in place. Line up
the hatch and slide the plywood out letting the stick be pushed down by the foam to
the fuselage. When you can get this done the next step is to put some glue on

stick. A small amount on epoxy is safer than CA as you can move it around to line up
things. Put the glue 1” end from the ends so there is no danger of gluing the hatch
down. After it sets remove the hatch and glue the ends down with CA. Next cut the

center of the stick out leaving 3/8” at each end. I drill a small hole in this key block
and place a small dowel all the way through and glue.

Install the latch next. Cut a hole in the fuselage where the latch is located. It is on
the centerline and make
the hole larger so it can move 1/16” side to side. Bolt the
latch to a plywood plate and tape the plate to the under side of the hole. Place the
plywood latch barrel retainer in the hatch. Use two foam rubber blocks to hold the
plywood up in the hatch. Tes
t fit these parts. Move the latch plywood to center the
latch in the hatch. If you are going to put the air to air refueling hatch detail in do it
now. The rear of the refueling door will operate the latch. The door is G
10 sheeting
ply from BVM). Th
e door is glued at the front and held up at the rear by the
latch pressing on a small circle of plywood over the center of the latch. These parts
need to be painted before installing. Test all these parts before gluing. I thinned the
plywood circle by one
outside lamination. Test the size of this part before installing. It
will not be easy to paint this after building, so painting it silver on the inside would
look like aluminum.





If you are installing these fittings be careful o
f the space you have. There is little
extra space. The angle of the mounting bracket is important. Test the fit before you
glue. A height gage is provided. It must clear the metal latches when they are up.
Depress the small pin at the bottom so the latch p
ops up. Have someway to hold them
in place as the glue sets. If you keep a small notch in the glass for the plywood
bulkhead to fit through it will want to hold the bulkhead upright. You can then spring it
forward and hold it in place with a small length o
n wire just behind the bottom of the
metal latch. Cut the dirt plugs down as show. On the inside where you are gluing the
rivet use a small ball grinder to cut a groove around the inside so the epoxy will not
pull out. Cut a few notches on the bottom side
of the rivet. You should be able to push
the rivet into the hole well enough to stand up, test this. Next almost fill the hole with
epoxy, press rivet in and store upright to set. I mounted the small stand behind the
latch. This gives you a place to store
the plugs while refueling and keeps them out of
the dirt. The plugs are just to keep dirt out but they add an extra seal as well. Leave
room for the JetCat LED board at the rear if you have a JetCat.

Cut the four fuselage ventilators

Two are locate about 2
0 "from the rear and two are at the rear of the nose
section. At the front locate the hole 3/16" down from the inlet, cut around the shape
leaving about 1/8" at the rear. Space the bent in piece with a 1/4" spacer and glue
G10 sheeting on top and bottom. Y
ou can't go around the corners, so fill it with balsa
and use body filler. The two at the rear are easier, cut top, bottom and forward. Then
score the top rear and bend in. Place a 1/4" spacer in and cut G10 sheeting for the top
and bottom.

Use CA to glue
and fiber and epoxy to finish the inside. Remove 1/4" spacers.


Cut the front of the inlets out to the sharp brake line. Draw a line around leaving
about ¼” to go. There will be glass trash around the seams remove this carefully do let
the drum grab
the edge when turning into the edge. Trim with a ½” drum sander so the
edge is sharp. This gives a sharp blend in line with no lump. Do not use too much force
to push the duct in. Check your sanding. The inlets stick out 3/8” past the front face of
the win
g saddle. Do not trim the front of the inlets until they are glued in place. Do not
glue in center plug until later. Make sure you have the 1.3/4” distance to the bottom and
it is centered. The rear of the inlets are 1.3/4” to 1.1/2” up from the bottom to
room for the fuel pump housing in the belly right in front of the wing cutout. If your fuel
pump has a cap on the wire end use a drum sander to remove some thickness for fit.

Have the inlets in, the tanks in, the bellmouth on and the hose on. Just g
lue the
ducts to the fuselage, not together in the center. Check twice, glue once. Use the
bellmouth to line them up for gluing. Wipe excess glue off the ducts so you can see
where to trim them after the epoxy sets.




TAIL (fin) Picture 5

Make sure the fin

was not bent in shipping. Use heat gun to fix.

File out any irregularities inside at the rear of the fin where the rear spar fits. Cut any
glass out of the rear of the fin where the rudder fits Cut back the fin where the top of
the rudder fits so there i
s room for the hinge pin guide. It is easier to do now. If it is
too big that’s ok. With the spar in place make sure the outside of the fin at the rear is
straight on both sides. Taper the last 1/8” of the inside of the fin skin where the
rudder fits to a

thin edge at the rear, this will be the gap seal to the rudder. If there
are any warps from shipping take them out with a hair dryer. Hold the fuselage
upside down so gravity will help. Install the rear spar first, use the fin jig. Clamp the
fin to th
e spar, use something straight under the clamps to spread the load out. The
rest of the spars (three) glue in with thick epoxy inside the fin. Use epoxy inside the
fuselage. Fill the gap at the rear top of the fin with balsa and epoxy. Use the fin jig

do not glue it to the fin! The rudder hinge pin removes from the top. This way
the rudder may be removed for painting. Put small balsa blocks behind the fin spar
for better glue support for hinges. Glue in the space filler inside bottom of

The rear duct support ring 3/8” in from rear. Sand an angle on ring to
get the 3/8”. Sand a gap for the splice tape. Locate so nozzle projects 1.1/2”. Drill
holes for the fin hinges. Test fit the ¼” nylon tube at the bottom. Cut the 1/8” hole for
the yel
low tube in the top of the fin. Leave this tube a ½” extra long. Test fit these
parts, yellow tube, two hinges and .063 wire that is 2” taller than the fin. Line these
parts on the hinge line that goes into the center of the ¼” tube at the bottom and is
ntered at the top. Remove and epoxy hinges and install. The upper guide tube will
be installed next as it is too hard to worry about all the stuff at one time. Leave a
little tube sticking out the ends and trim to fit.

RUDDER Picture 6 and 28

Cut the rud
der sides from 1/16” balsa. Taper the TE so it is half as thick at the trailing
edge. Location is shown on plans. Draw a spar line on one of the sides. Glue the
3/16” sq. spar in place. Make a little round recess to hold the CF tube. Sand the
outside o
f the carbon fiber tube and CA in place on the centerline. Make ribs out of
3/16 sq.
The hinge line is the back of the fin, the 1/4" nylon tube is centered
on it. Drill hinges out to .063.
Place the rudder half of the hinge on the fin half and
mark the l
ocation on the rudder spar. Cut them out with a little saw and knife. Taper
the spar a bit, it’s smaller at top. With the hinges on the fin glue ribs to spar and
hinges. Space the rears up with a 1/16 stick. After the ribs are set, push them down
and glu
e to the side. Glue rudder hinges. Have a wire in place to keep them lined up.
Use little piece of 1/16” balsa to line up rudder. Next glue other side of rudder on.
Sand rudder to fit in the fin. Using a long stick place epoxy over ends of hinges insid
fin. Install plastic guides in the rudder. Install the nylon tube that guides the flex
shaft. Use the curve of the tube to your advantage. Use the nice end of the shaft for
the control horn end. Solder this end so the setscrew will bite in. Cut a s
lot in the
plastic bushing from top to bottom so it will close down a little to fit the flex shaft




better. Cut an under size hole in the plywood to close down the hole. Last thing to do is
glue flex shaft in CF tube. Place a balsa cap on the top of the CF

tube to keep the glue
from running out. Work upside down to keep the glue from running out. Keep this
way till glue sets. See picture #8.

WING start here Picture 16

Glue some 1/8 sq. balsa in the wing foam
spar slots so they will not move
uring the sheeting process.
Make sure the L.E. is straight.

Make sure you clean
out any epoxy that gets into the spar slots when you sheet the top of the wing. Use
a small balsa stick to wipe it out.... Have the balsa ELEVON wing caps in place before
ou sheet the wing.

Drill the airline hole in the foam after top is sheeted. It is 1” behind the front spar
and runs from the center of the butt of the wing to the leading edge center. Start at
the leading edge, as there is more room for error at the butt.

Use a ½” tube as a drill
and sand to size.
Top of wing is marked with an arrow or L and R. The thin
bed is top mark them L and R.

Glue the spar jig pieces together so you end up with 1, 2 and 3 parts.

We use the foam box to hold the wing. Picture 22


the wing box and fold the top back and place on you table with the open
side hanging down the front. When gluing the butt rib pieces it place this will hold the
wing. Use white glue or epoxy on all butt rib parts. Use wing spar jig to align parts.


Assemble the wing hold down units remembering there is a left and right. The bolts
heads are flush on the bottom Glue in with white glue. Place a bead up the front
across the top and down the back of the butt rib. I use white glue because

of it’s easy
clean up. Be sure spars fit! Too lose is better than too tight.


The better you clean the spar slots and the edges of the foam to balsa the easier
the next steps are.




Remove the small wooden plug in one spar slot at a
time and check fit, sand for no
drag fit
. Cut a new plug for no drag fit and use small amount of white glue to hold in
place .1" deep and in the center.

Make sure the spars are glued not just held together.
Place wax paper between. Have your stack of par
ts, top foam , wax paper, balsa.
glass cloth, epoxy and wing foam. Hold down with 1/2" or 3/4" plywood and weight.
Use scraps of plywood to clean out slots go back do it again until no more glue comes
out. Don't forget to clean off the front as well. Let s
et over night.

Cap the rear of the wing foam with two ply’s of 3/16” balsa first. Use a 2” x3/16” x
36” sheet for this. Stand the wing on the LE, do not bend, protect from falling over.
Sheet only the top of the wing with 3/32” balsa. The bottom is sheete
d with 1/16”
balsa. The two balsa sizes are needed to fit the glass L.E. Place the top foam bed on
a FLAT table top down use masking tape , next wax paper then the wood held
together with masking tape on the outside with the grain running with the L.E.
balsa using the plans. Cut some
weight glass cloth to cover the spars and
landing gear cut outs. Use two layers, the second one a little smaller than the first.
Place a light coat of epoxy on the glass and wood, then a heavy coat on the foam.

Too much glue is better than too little. Use some flat thing like plywood to spread the
weight around. Use 100 to 500 pounds.
Go in from the butt and wipe any extra
glue out of the spar slots.

Clean up any glue that is pushed out before it sets. L.E.

and butt as well. When using WEST epoxy the spar slots were clear.

Adding the wing spars

Tape top bed down to table, then wax paper.

With both wings in the top beds place the foam spacers behind the #1 spar and in
front of #4. Align the rear control sp
ars to each other by adding shims to the rear
spacer. When gluing the spars in place keep the spars centered by measuring to the
spar center line. Measure from outside of foam to the bellypan and make them even.
Place weight on the wing and let it set over

MAIN GEAR (keep in bed while doing this)

Use a 1/2" drum sander to cut the hole for the gear, go down 1/4" at a time.

Mark the foam to be cut out by drawing around the plywood with a felt pen.
Locate this plate by bolting the gear unit upside down

to the mounting plate. Having
the strut and wheel in place locate the plate in reference to the spars and the wheel to
wheel well. Cut strut wells and line with balsa. Some retracts may require a hole in
the leading edge for air lines. Reinforce this ho
le and round the edges so they will not
cut the lines. Test this before you put the leading edge on.




Cut the landing gear leg well at this time. I go down 7/8” at the butt and 0” at the
start of the retract unit. This is a tapered hole, wider at the retra
ct than at the butt. Cut
the hole for the air cylinder if the cylinder is on the outside. Make sure you can install
the retracts at this time. The cylinder should not stick out past the foam. The center of
the strut is 5” from the edge of the foam.

Glue i
n mount. Install the dowels, and then fill hole with scrape balsa. Put
masking tape around the gear mount to protect the foam while sanding. Use
glass over the spars and cover the bottom with 1/16” balsa, leave it on the
table sitting on the top.

The 1/16 and 3/32 sheeting is for glass L.E. fit


Do not glue anything to the wing flange without the wing in
place. Use the wing to set the angle of the flange whenever it is

Using the bolt plates as spacers glue the fr
ont former in next. (note the bolt
plates go between the formers. With wax paper over the bolt location and the wing in
place glue the plate in place. Use a C
clamp to hold the wing to the flange where the
bolt will go. Remove wing and reinforce this lo
cation with three layers medium glass
and epoxy. Put the wing back on. Wrap some tape around the tap drill bit to tighten
the fit in the wing holes and drill the ¼”x20 holes in the bolt plates. Tap the plates
going through the wing as a guide. After do
ing one side put the bolt in place before
doing the other. Sand the bolt plates in a curve to blend into the wing flange. Leave
a ¼” past the edge of the bolthole.

Line up the wing on the fuselage and add the two dowels to the front and two at
the rear.

The front one stick out 1/4"+. Place the rear ones about 1” forward of rear
balsa spar. Place a little 1”sq. of 1/8” ply in top of wing. Add 1/8” ply inside wing
flange to support the rear dowels. These will go from the aft former to 1” past your
el location. Drill down through the wing to line these up. The dowels glue in
fuselage flange. As you cover and paint the wing the front dowels will get tight. File
the holes to get a good fit. You will only need to file down, if you go too much add
e glue.

Down is up when your upside down!!

Remove wing by lifting rear clear of alignment dowels and sliding aft until
nose dowels are clear then lift front and rear up. The wing will hit fuselage
if you try and remove by lifting only at the rear.


Last thing to do before adding belly pan.




With the added weigh of the turbine power plant I have added a rear spar hold
down. Cut the foam to receive the plywood unit on the front side of the rear spar.
Install so the bolt head is just insid
e the belly pan. Now add head pads and sand to
the former contour. Glue in place. Wrap a little tape around the tap drill bit and drill a
hole in the flange plus a ¼” plywood backup under the flange. Clamp the flange to the
wing and tap the hole. Install t
he bolt, tighten lightly. Fit a small gusset on the front
side of this bolt block going down the fuselage side. This will keep the flange from
bending down as you install the bolt.


To install the wing leading edge, first make sure the front o
f the wing is flat, no glue
or wood lumps. You cleaned the glue off as you sheeted the wing, RIGHT ?? Next CA
1/8x1/4 short balsa sticks on the top and bottom of the wing at the leading edge, they
stick out about 1/8” past the edge. Put one every 3”. A
t the rear use small scraps of
plywood clamped to the rear spar. Let the top plywood hang out about 1” and the
bottom a ½”. Sand any ridge off the back of the leading edge. Fit the L.E. in the slot
made by the sticks and slide toward the fuselage. Mar
k where to trim and work forward
trimming a little at a time. When you are trimming the last little bit cut strips of 100 grit
and pull them up the gap between the fuselage and L.E. Stop when the rear fits.
Install a butt rib in the end of the leading e
dge, inside about 1/8”. Sand the edge round
next to remove the sharpness. It will cut the fuselage paint if sharp...

Cut two holes in the glass, one for conduit hole you drilled in the foam and one to
line up with the retract units air lines (
not the cyl
). Put a cord in the conduit and
install the conduit in the leading edge. Pre
form the conduit by bending it using a 7/16”
drill shank or a wide line Sharpie pen body inserted 3/8” and bending it back. See how
it bends and then rub some PFM glue arou
nd the bend location and then tape the
conduit to the drill bit to hold the shape until it sets. It needs to bend over 90 degrees.
Have it stick out about ¼” at the landing gear location and glue to the glass. Then sand
flush so it will not hit anything. H
ave plenty to push into the hole in the foam while
installing the leading edge. When gluing the L.E. on, put a blob of epoxy every 3”. Do
one side at a time and let gravity hold it in place by propping the wing up so the leading
edge is level. Fill in any
irregularities. Install L.E. butt ribs. Cover the LE as well as the
wing with glass.

ELEVONS See picture #11

Production support part is shown on belly pan.

Elevon spar is 3/4" at butt and 3/16" at tip.





The elevo
ns are built from 3/32” balsa. It makes it a little easier if you cant the
elevon spar by planing an angle on the edge so the top and bottom angle is about the
same. When you add the other half of the surface. Place the

on a flat table and
twist th
e other side when you glue it down. Put the hinges in the wing first, NOTE
they are in at a angle.

Put a 3/16" spacer under the wire at the tip hinge and
a 5/16" spacer at last hinge toward the fuselage. Have wire in and check for
straight .

Cut two ele
von surfaces from the plans, this is a left and right. Add the
3/16” thick spar to the bottom skin. Trim the spar so the other side fit the wing less
the skin thickness of the elevon, NOTE when doing this make sure the elevon is
spaced back the correct d
istance from the back of the wing. Put the control system in,
glue the CF torque tube support blocks in first, have the CF tube in place as a guide.
Put the hex in place, but not glued, use as a guide.(a wrap of tape will tighten the fit)
Keeping this s
urface inline with the wing, next put in the hinges, NOTE they have no
angle. Put a wire though the hex and all hinges. Make sure the hinge center line lines
up with hex

carbon fiber tube centerline. Add the ribs next, place them next to the
hinges. Ne
xt glue a cap over the tip end of the torque tube with the yellow tube
sticking out to locate the cap. This is to keep the glue from running out when you glue
in the hex drive. With the elevon off the wing and the hinge wire with yellow guide
tubes in pla
ce. Add balsa supports to hold the yellow tube that guides the wire from
hinge to hinge. Glue the yellow tube to the support balsa. Add the torque tube ribs
now. CA the carbon fiber tube in place. You can sand the wing and elevon as one unit
for final
fit. Thin down the rear of the elevon to match the wing tip. Leave room for
covering and paint.

Glue the top on now. Cut the top a little big. With the top on a flat surface glue
the elevon assembly down to it. Assemble the hex control arms with one a
rm on each
side of the rod end bearing.

Put the surface on the wing. Build the hex end supports. Line up the elevon tip
and control arm as you glue the hex in place. Fit the plastic bushing to the hex shaft,
file or add glue to the wood hole to change t
he fit. Glue the hex in place and add the
hex end support. Set wing up so glue will not run out of the torque block (tip down).
Try to have the same angle on the control arms when you do the other side.
Fill in
around the CARBON FIBER TUBE with balsa an
d epoxy.

Then add balsa to the
front and sand to fit the gap seal. Use polyply or thin plywood as a gap seal on the
wing. Sand a groove in the wing to hold the gap seal. Adjust elevon for a ½” travel
at the tip, up and down. The hinge pin is .055 wire.

Bend it down and hold in place
with wood block on the belly pan bottom. See picture #10. You can add small piano
wire to the trailing edge to keep it from denting. Place a soft balsa block on butt rib
and sand to fuselage contour by pulling a strip of

100 grit sand paper up between the
fuselage and elevon.

BYPASS and DUCTING Pictures 4 and 19




Glue in rear alum. cooling tube
mounting ring. Install front mount former and rear
former. Tack glue one end of the mount rails in place and test fit the bypas
s housing.
Make any changes now. Test fit the alum. cooling tube and make sure it centers at
the rear. Add or subtract to the front or rear former to make this fit. Filet the bottom
of the rails with glass and epoxy. Use one flat head 4
40 screws to e
ach side to hold
bypass to fuselage. Use two flat head 4
40 to mount the turbine to the bypass and
fuselage rails. Fill the bypass flange with wood until it fits the hatch cover. Add two 6
32 screws, or ¼” nylon each side to hold hatch on. Use HI
V to tighten fit of
the alum tube to the bypass, if required. Do not glue in!! Just wipe it in the glass, let
dry and test fit. The rocket nozzle glues to rear of alum. tube with HI
Use grommets in fuel line holes. Wires come in by cutting
a channel in the bypass
flange. Do not cut into the hatch flange, just the bypass flange. Add wood and glass
to the flange first then cut channel. Use RTV and make a custom plug to fit your
needs. The better you plug all the holes in the bypass the more
fire protection you
will have.

FUEL TANKS Picture 17

The f
106 fuel tanks hold about 45 oz each 42
oz usable. Make sure any lumps of
glass are removed from the fuselage in the tank area. Test the size of the “H” shaped
box that holds the top of the tank
s apart. It is wider at the rear and will vary in size
due to the taper of the fuselage and where you place the tanks. Adjust as required.
The inlet hose holds the bottom. The tanks set on the wing and wing flange. Place a
1/8” balsa shim on the back of

the front tank bulkhead to keep the fuel outlet from
hitting the bulkhead. Add gusset to the front of the tank bulkhead, it must hold the
tank in a crash.. It has holes for our fuel filters and fuel lines. Before you glue the belly
pan in place put plast
ic wrap over tanks, then place small blobs of RTV in the fuel tank
area. This makes a soft rub band for the tank to ride on. Hold tanks in place until
RTV sets, with wing on and tank spacer in place. Use the top hatch for fuel line
connections. The head
er tank pick up is in the center, no clunk. The header is
located just behind the fuselage split, a 6
oz tank was used. A tank type that will vent
all the air is the best type. This box also protects the tank in a crash. This tank will be
full at all time
s so when checking the CG have it full or better yet add 5 oz of lead at
the tank location for testing. Only half of this tank is useable fuel with a 6 oz tank this
is only 20 seconds of power at full throttle. If you are using this fuel you are in

e. Have the third line in the header for filling, this line can go to the bottom
so most of the fuel can be removed by defueling. Plywood tube and cable clips are

to the fuselage as needed. Lines run under the “H” member that holds the tanks
The clip has 1/8” and a 4mm holes in it as well as a cable slot. These fit the
JetCat, alter for other turbines. Fuel line clips are also provided. Run the fuel lines so
they will not be pulled on in a crash. I use Tygon ¼” OD F
A to the pump and
r the vent. Test run your turbine at full power and record the time to empty.




Subtract one minute from this time and have this as your maximum time. You will
normally use less than full power so this becomes your reserve fuel.

Nose Radio Tray. Picture 24
and 27

Use front tray bulkhead to locate notches on rear of nose. You may need to add a
small plywood doubler to the rear because of the width. I made my tray 5.1/8” wide
and 9” long. Note the fuel pump will stick into the tray and clearance is needed. The

front bulkhead was located 6.3/4” from the rear add side braces halfway back. This
left room for a battery box just aft of the nose gear mount. Put the radio switch,
retract, brake and receiver on the tray. Put the receiver at the front. If the speed
ke control will fit put it there to. Add two little stop blocks to the tray to keep it
from going forward. Put them about ½” in from the sides. Add gussets to brace the
bulkhead where these stops hit. Rout all the tubes and wires to exit at the lower rear
corner and line up with the cable raceway in the front of the aft fuselage. Use a cable
clamp to keep all the things together. Make all connections in the belly pan. Run the
antenna forward in the nose.


A raceway is installed on the left side of the aft fuselage section from the nose to
the wing opening. This makes it easy to push the wires and tubes from the nose to
the wing opening when attaching the nose. Use the space behind the front wing spar
the belly pan to hold excess cable length. Do not make the cables too short. This
will make installing the wing harder. You would have the fuselage upside down while
putting on the nose. You may want to put an opening by the ECU so the radio
connections ca
n come out the same place. Cover the race way with glass and epoxy.
Sand all edges so it will not chaff the wires. Glue in place and add some small supports
to the ends. Split this at the fuselage parting line. Use a little wood plug to line up the

part after the rear sets up.

Belly pan

Fit belly pan to bottom, no elevons. Trim crooked formers as necessary. Place
gobs of epoxy every 2 to 3" around edges, thicken so it will barely run. Do not cut
pan! Tape elevon area of pan to fuselage. Store upsi
de down till epoxy sets. After
glue sets, cut wheels wells. Slip polyply around gear well for a small lip for gear doors.
Tape the outside of the belly pan. Fill all gaps with thickened epoxy from inside. Fit a
plywood center divider in wheel well and gus
set ends well.

106 C.G.

Put some lead in the nose if you plan to add a cockpit later. Air tanks can be
located for final balance. Use the front LG spar as the balance point and move to your
liking in 1/8” moves to 1/2” aft of the spar. On the spar or

1/8” aft with gear
retracted will result in the elevon 1/16” down at the tip for neutral. Keep turbine




battery behind radio, for radio interference sake. I have the ECU and ECU battery on the
inlet ducts


The real F
106 had up thrust in th
e engine. Push down at rear. The elevons for
roll control had only up on one side, no down on the other side. It also had a preset
up trim for takeoff. LOW SPEED roll control will suffer if you have the elevons going
down the same amount as up! You will

even turn the wrong way at low speed!! Have
1/4” up at the tip for roll and 5/8” for pitch. They need to add for full roll and pitch,
make sure this happens. Rudder travel is ¾” from center.


Do not cut the shaft, it will unwind. Adjust the le
ngth in the rudder so fit in the
fuselage is ok. One of the Robart wheel bushings was used for the lower bushing.

If you do not have Robert bushings a bushing is supplied but it is a little too large. Cut
a slot in it and press it in a 5/32” hole. Adjust t
he hole size for a good fit.

RUDDER CONTROL Pictures 6 and 28

This is the control system. It has a 5/32” nose wheel control arm.

EXAUST DUCT and BYPASS Pictures 18 and 19

Aluminum outside and stainless inside. The outside is centered by the nozzle mou
at the rear and bypass at the front. Corrugated spacers keep the two ducts centered.
Keep the end of the stainless duct flush with the end of the aluminum duct at the rear
and ¼” inside the nozzle. The front of the stainless duct is back from the turb
exhaust in the front. This distance is in reference to the diameter of the inside tube
and the size of the exhaust nozzle of the turbine (see top of side view drawing). Most
turbines will be 1/2" to 1" back. Install the turbine and mount the ducts b
efore you
trim any ducts to length. There must be space at the rear of the turbine in the bypass
for airflow around the turbine
, make this

space the same as the sides
. This air is
pulled in by the outgoing exhaust. If it is too restricted a greater vacuum is formed
and the thrust of the turbin
is reduced. A loss of about 10%
. of static thrust will
normally occur, this will go away as ram pressure cools the tailpipe rather than suction
from the turbine exhaust. Test thrust!

On the ground

air go in the front to the tu
rbine and

the rear

between the
inner and outer exhaust ducts. T
oo much air flow
at the rear
is caused by

inner tube

far inside
the rear

or the turbine to far inside at


Too much air flow
will cause outer duct to co
With JetCat 80 & 120 the turbine whe

is just

with hatch off.





You can put the JetCat p
itot in the fin. Make a small block of wood ½” sq. with a hole
for the pitot or use a clamp. Attach this to the rear of the pitot tube just in front of the
soft tube connectors. Add a 1/16” x ¾” plywood handle that will come down out of
the fin. Put a Velc
ro pad at the bottom to hold it in place at the bottom of the fin.


1 Picture of DF F
106 with brakes at 17 LB

2 Two nose mounting holes top and one starter shaft guide lower.

3 BVM throttle servo mounting on top.

4 DF exhaust tube

mount with tube upside down on wing.

5 Fin jig shown in place.

6 Shown upside down, rudder control system.

7 DF motor mount and fuel tanks.

8 Front wing dowel and guide tube for nose mount.

9 One possible installation turbine ECU and batter

10 Inside of speed brakes.

11 Elevon control system.

12 Nose section with starter shaft guide.

13 Small counter weight to hold butt rib while glue sets.

14 Sanding the L.E.

15 Fuselage hatch.

16 Elevon servo throw reducer.

17 Turbine fu
el tanks.

18 Rear bypass to exhaust tube connection.

19 Rocket nozzle attach.

20 Nose wheel door.

21 Added close up of sanding technique.

22 Box used to hold one wing panel with butt level.

23 Canopy latch.




24 Installed radio trays.

25 Can
opy latch.

26 Pitot.

27 Two radio packages.

28 Rudder control system.

If you have questions fax 503 647 7520 or E mail

Phone 503 647 2851 7am

3pm Mon
Thur Attn Darryl

Web at

Check the web first I will post news and pictures of
construction as things come up.



Paint the inside of the inlets before you install them.


Drill a ¼” hole in a 2x4,

Glue ¼” spacers on each side of the hole to keep the nut
from turning. Glue the two 1/8” nuts together then tap using the 2x4 as a guide. See
drawing V2.

Make sure your main retracts will fit in wing before you glue.

Use #10 (2mm) copper wire for hot wir
e cutting. WELLER solder gun. I had better
results with drum sander going down about 1/8" at a time.





When installing the windows in the canopy frame, cut the window holes in the fiberglass.
There are two styles. Locate the glass frames on the cl
ear plastic. Cut the windows out
on the centerline of the frames and glue the windows in one at a time.


To sand a recess for the gap seal to fit in, use a wood block 1x2x1/4” and glue a ¼”
wide strip of 100 grit along the 2” side. C
ut the sandpaper ¼ by 3” so the ends can
be bent up and you can grip the ends. Use a guide along the wing so the sanding
block will ride where you need the recess. You can use a yardstick for the guide. See
wing drawing.


the lower hole in the fin larger. Push thick epoxy up this hole. Have the yellow
tube glued to a stick for spacing to the spar. Cut the tube a little long on top. Have a
wire in the tube as a plug to keep glue out and to find the hole in the top of the fin
Align or trim the lower end of the tube flush to the rudder. Install rudder hinge pin
and align fuselage so glue will best flow around upper guide tube. You may wish to
move it as the glue moves around inside the fin.


If there are warps in the

fin remove them with heat gun or lamps. Glue in with RTV or
PFM do not press fin in to the spar. Let the glue fill any gaps, do not press skin in.


As the price of the toys go up, it would be nice to keep a look at the battery. The
onboard c
heckers are a good deal.


If you put speed brakes on this aircraft you MUST design a foolproof system. If one
side fails to extend the aircraft will become uncontrollable in roll at slow air speeds.
The one speed brake looks like hard over rudd
er. The rudder always overpowers the
elevons at slow speeds... Ask Rich Fong.

Nose wheel door

Why the nose wheel door opens so far I do not know. However I do now know how.
They put the hinge line outside. Three hinges, one in the center and one at each
back about ¾” on the model. Keep the hinge line straight. This means the two end
hinges will be down farther than the center. Allow room for paint when the door opens
about 180 degrees.




Cutting the conduit into the wing

The hole is drilled with a ½”br
ass tube, sharpen and notch the end. Build wing, after
the spar are installed place upside down in wing beds. Make little table that holds the
½” tube inline with the wing. When drilling through put a block over the hole to
protect foam when breaking throu
gh. After making mine, I thought it would be a little
less bend if we started midway between the spars and finished about one inch behind
the first spar.


For the Turbine speed control there was an air speed pito
t in the fin. Get a tube that
fits your pitot tube. Epoxy this in the fin at the scale location. Finish this off flush on
the outside. You can now slide the pitot in from the inside and hold in place with a
stick that clamps to the pitot and extends down t
o the fuselage, hold with Velcro.