2001 Starion / Conquest Parts and Price Listing

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“Performance Engines and Suspension components for Street and Track”

A division of

T.E.P. Inc



(818) 764
6768 or (818) 764

(818) 764
0155 fax 24 Hrs.

topend @ racetep.com

Web: http:// www.starion


2001 Starion / Conquest Parts and Price Listing

These prices are current as of 06
01. Please be sure and check current prices when ordering.
s can change without notice and we don’t want you to get surprised. Those of you that have
been dealing with us for a few years know we have tried to keep our pricing consistent and some
items have even come down in price due to higher volume or ease of ma
nufacture. Be sure and
check out the very end for the list of performance parts packages…..There is always the possibility
that I forgot something in this list so if you do not see what you are looking for call or e
mail us and we

will let you know if we h
ave it or can get it….


Stock Fuel Injection System Upgrade Components:

The stock 2 injector throttle body injection is po
orly designed but it is what you have to work with unless you

want to jump in and go to a complete new F.I. system. We have been successful in working with the stock
system in applications up to about 320 hp although the driveability is not all it could be
. The stock system is
notoriously unreliable and difficult to troubleshoot and even more expensive to repair. DO NOT attempt any
upgrades to your car if the injection system is not working properly. You will lean out or detonate and cause
yourself much mor
e expensive problems.
Make the car run good before you try to make it go fast.

The first problem most people encounter when working on or troubleshooting their F.I. system is
establishing fuel pressure and volume. It seems no one has the tools and most rep
air shops don’t want to
deal with these cars. You need to know if the car is rich or lean before you can figure out what to do to fix or

upgrade it. To this end we offer a couple of good diagnostic and tuning tools. You also need to establish
fuel volume,
this will tell you if the fuel pump, pickup or fuel filter are restricting the amount of fuel to your
engine. You need at least 25 gallons per hour @ 45 psi to run under boost. This is easily measured by
taking a container of known size ( like a 1 gallon p
lastic bottle ) and running the fuel into it for 1 minute and
multiplying by 60 for a 1 hour flow rate. A 90
150 GPH rating is even better, this is the reason for upgraded
pumps. Fuel pressure plays a big part in tuning the system. If you cannot change the

length of time the
injector opens ( as with the stock system ) then raising the fuel pressure will let more fuel in during that
time with the added advantage of a better spray pattern and better atomization. Rising rate boost
referenced regulators are the

best way to accomplish this since the stock regulator does a fine job of
running the car at low speeds and off boost. We use an additional rising rate regulator inline with the stock
regulator to increase pressure in a linear fashion from 5 psi boost to 1
8 psi. The amount of pressure varies
with the output of your pump or pumps. Replacement BOSCH High volume and High pressure fuel pumps
are a great safety item and will assure you of having enough fuel available at all times. A must if you are
going to run
a Nitrous system and the only way to go to replace a bad stock pump.

Halmeter AF/30


The highest quality, most accurate, and affordable onboard rich/lean meter available. Simple 3 wire
installation. Hooks directly to your stock O2 sensor w
ire. Will quickly tell you if you are leaning out
and about to make a big mess inside your engine. Also very handy for tuning adjustable pressure
regulators and finding the boost limits of your fuel system. We recommend having this onboard at
all times to
alert you to any potential problems. This should be installed before any additional pumps
or regulators are purchased to make sure that you need them. If you are not running lean then


putting more fuel will make the car sluggish and unresponsive, not to me
ntion give you horrible fuel

Fuel Pressure Test Gauge


100 psi gauge for testing fuel pressure while idling or driving. Large 4” easy read dial, 3’ of high
pressure hose, and a Tee fitting for hooking into your high pressure line.

Bosch Replacement 350 HP fuel pump.


A stand alone replacement for the stock pump. Good for systems up to 350 HP. A direct
replacement for the stock pump.

Bosch Racing 500 HP Fuel pump.


A stand alone replacement pump for syste
ms up to 500 HP or any 4 injector or AIC system. This is
the pump that comes with our 4 injector conversions and AIC kits.

Rising Rate Inline fuel pressure regulator.


Same baseline as the stock regulator so it will no affect your off boost a
nd low boost driveability. An

easy to install unit that does exactly what the bigger fancier regulators do at about ½ the price. Also
makes a great stand alone regulator if you want to eliminate the stock one or are going to a stand
alone management system

Bosch mechanical adjustable regulator.


A handy inline mechanical regulator that will enable you to raise your baseline fuel pressure
incrementally to the limit of the pumps output. An easy way to cure off boost lean spots. Can be
used with a
ny rising rate regulator.

Fuel Injectors

89 Primary

$345.00 each

89 Secondary

$375.00 each


$335.00 each

Stock Factory replacement fuel injectors. They come with new seals and new injector connectors.

n and flow stock injectors ( per pair, all years )


Cheaper than buying new ones and usually successful

Fuel Injector replacement connectors

$10.00 ea

These little connectors are the source of so many problems in a StarQuest it should be

the very
first thing you replace when you buy one or are having any driveability problems. This is the plastic
connector with the electrical terminals and a 6” pigtail of wire. Ours are the quick release style so you do
not need to pick the little “U” cli
ps to remove them. Just push and release. Solder new wires onto your
harness and off you go. Be sure and THOROUGHLY CLEAN your injector terminals with a small file or
piece of sandpaper to insure good contact.

K&N Air filter for stock air box


This is the best way to do this. K&N element in the stock air box. Drill a bunch or ¾” to 1” holes in
the airbox or cut one large panel out on the side away from the turbo and the face. Keeps intake
noise down and admits quite a bit more air. Cheap, Easy

, and the filter is washable..Leave the cold
air inlet from the fender in place !!!!!

Fuel Injector Seal kit


Throttle body Seal kit (Includes Injector seal kit and throttle body base gasket. )


Throttle Position sensor


Inlet boot from Turbo to Mass Air Sensor


Due to price fluctuations please call or e
mail us for current prices on the following itms

Coolant temp sensor for F.I.

Knock Sensor

Stock Fuel Pressure regulator

Knock sensor on side of block by
oil filter housing

Coolant temp sensor for computer


Low temp fan switch on radiator

Idle speed control motor

Fuel Pressure Regulator

Vacuum advance on distributor

Pressure sensor on firewall

Knock Box on left inner fender

Turbochargers, Intercoolers,
Boost Controls, Compressor Bypass valves:

We offer a variety of Turbo upgrades for the StarQuest. We always get asked…”What is the best Turbo to
go with ?” That answer depends on what you want out of the car when you are done. Here are the Turbo
upgrades w
e offer and their features. Be sure and be honest about what you want from the car when
making the Turbo choice and you will not be disappointed. The Turbos listed here will perform as stated so
if you really know what you want from the car you will be hap
py. We do not rebuild Stock Starion Turbos. It
is a waste of time and the failure rate is too high. It is a fine thing to do to sell the car or just to patch it up
for a short time, but it will fail again.

Any time a Turbo is replaced you need to replace t
he oil feed line with it. We offer stock replacement oil
lines ($18.95) as well as Steel Braided lines which are cleanable and re
usable. They also flow more oil
than the stock unit for longer life. ($60.00)

We no longer do upgrades or rebuilding to exist
ing Mitsubishi Turbos…The cores are very rarely

good and failure rate is very high…We only supply NEW turbos….

New 14G Sport Turbo


This is the Turbo to use to replace your dead stock unit or if you want a fun street car that will never
ke more than about 250 HP. Requires no modifications to system and will not hurt your stock
engine. This is a New Turbo, not a rebuilt so no core is needed. Complete with Wastegate and
Actuator. Just bolt it on.

New 16G Super Sport Turbo


tried and true upgrade. Much more aggressive than the 14G. A good 300 HP Turbo. Does not
have quite the high RPM capability of the Super
16G upgrade but still a good choice for an
Aggressive street car or 13 sec ¼ mile car….

New Super 16G Turbo


Similar to the 16G but with the larger factory race wheel…Killer turbo up to 350HP and it bolts to the
stock exhaust manifold….The best bolt
on Turbo you can buy for your Starion or Conquest…

T3/T4 Hybrid Turbo conversion package



Ultimate Turbo for the Starion/Conquest. Nothing else compares. Fast spool. Amazing
RPM capability. You thought your Starion engine did not rev up because it is a long stroke truck
engine. It is really because the tiny Turbo on it runs out of steam at 500
0 rpm. Bolt a T3/T4 system onto
your stock 88
89 and what the engine scream to 7000 still making power. Of course you should have a
good engine before doing this. Once it is uncorked and running freely the 2.6T is fully capable of 7500
RPM. That is how you

get the good ¼ mile times. With the standard rear end gear ratios you need to
be able to rev to at least 7000 RPM in the first 3 gears to run in the mid 13’s or better.

Turbocharger with internal wastegate assembly. New exhaust manifold

Downpipe with 02
sensor. Inlet pipe from Turbo to Mass Air Sensor.

S/S Oil feed line. Water line kit. Oil drainback pipe. All needed hardware and gaskets.

Stock and performance Turbo Components and Upgrades:


Stock Replacment Oil Feed Line


Steel Braided Hi
gh Flow Oil Feed Line


Turbo Metal Water Line set with washer and hose


Stock or 14G Turbo rebuild kit


Exhaust manifold studs and nuts only


Turbo to manifold stud and nut set


Turbo to Downpip
e stud and nut set


Wastegate upgrade


Dual port Wastegate actuator for stock, Super
60, or 16G turbo upgrade. Very precise control. Up
to 14psi baseline boost without VBC. Bolt
On replacement for stock unit. Comes with mount
bracket. Same actuator we use on the T3/T4 kit.

Ceramic Ball Bearing upgrade for T3/T4 Turbo Package


The Ultimate in long life and fast spool up. Nothing else like it.

T3/T4 Turbo Only


Ceramic Ball Bearing upgrade for T3/
T4 Turbo only


T3/T4 Turbo with internal wastegate and actuator standard bearing


T3/T4 Turbo with internal wastegate and actuator ceramic ball bearing


External Wastegate Cast iron T3 exhaust manifold only


etics Deltagate External Wastegate


The all around best and most affordable SMALL external wastegate available. Comes with flanges
and gaskets

Turbonetics Deltagate Racegate


The Best and Most affordable BIG Wastegate available.
Comes with flanges and gaskets

Spearco Intercooler Upgrade


A bolt on Spearco intercooler kit for all years of Starion and Conquest. Less than ½ psi drop at 18
psi boost and a 30% reduction in inlet air temp. 3.5” core with mounting brackets

and pipes for a
direct bolt on replacement.

When we do our TEC
II systems in house as a complete install we can relocate the intercooler
plumbing to come up the left side under the battery and drop into the throttle body. This shortens
the plumbing a bi
t but most importantly it keeps it away from the heat of the turbo. We do not offer
this as a kit yet but probably will sometime in the future. It does require losing the windshield washer

bottle and trimming the battery tray. It will work with the A/C and

can be done in 2.25” plumbing. Our
Intercooler upgrade can be ordered set up for this if you want to do your plumbing this way. It is no
extra charge.

Spearco Water Injection kit


Spearco Intercooler optimizer kit


Boost tri
ggered sprayer system to fog water or alcohol onto your intercooler for extra cooling during
hot weather or when drag racing

Over the valve cover pipe with HKS Racing Bypass valve


Over the valve cover pipe with TurboXS Type H Bypass valve



Over the valve cover pipe with TurboXS Type S Bypass valve


Intercooler Plumbing Kit with Bypass valve


Complete mandrel bent plumbing kit with silicone hose couplers to replace all the stock flex hoses.
Stock Diameter tubing.
Over the valve cover pipe flows 30% more than stock flat pipe.

Complete kit from Turbo, to Intercooler, to Throttle body.

Over The Valve Cover pipe only.


Replaces the flat stupid factory pipe and the cloth hose attached to it. Also availabl
e with HKS
Racing bypass valve attached. $299.00

2 Piece plumbing kit from Turbo to Intercooler..Does not include OVC pipe


Complete package with plumbing kit, OVC pipe and Racing Bypass valve.


Boost manual boost Controller


Your basic manual boost controller. Mount under hood. Complete with silicone hose, fittings, and
instructions. Easy way to make up to 10 psi increase.

Electronic Valve Controllers



Very simple and reliable. Wil
l never let you down



Fuzzy logic, all the bells and whistles. Complicated to learn and use.

Boost Gauges

Autometer Z Series boost gauge.


Black bezel gauge with orange needle. Very visible and very attractive.

ll fit in hole where factory gauge went or can be mounted externally in cup.

Compressor bypass valves

A necessary part of any system. Releases the built up boost pressure in the system when the
throttle is slammed shut either while shifting or deceleratin
g. Keeps turbo spooled up and
eliminates boost spikes in the compressor housing that can ruing the turbo or shorten its life

HKS Racing Bypass Valve:

With Tee pipe to clamp into your stock cloth hose


With complete over th
e valve cover pipe and Purosil connectors


TurboXS Type H valve


TurboXS Type s valve


For all systems, but a must for T3/T4 and Super60 upgrades or anyone drag or road racing the car and
running more than 15 psi boost.

Exhaust System and Manifolds

We recommend a 2.5” all the way back, no cats. with a 3” inlet and outlet 6” round Walker Ultra
Flo muffler.

This is not smog legal and therefore should only be done on cars that are only driven on the track. When
driving on t
he highway always run your cat under the car. We offer High Flow replacement cats for under
the car in both 2.5” and 3” diameters. We do not believe in 3” pipe systems for Street Starions. We don’t
want to argue with everyone so I will say that… Yes we fee
l a 3” system will make more power on an
extremely modified car running big turbos and big boost… But on a street car it will cause poor off boost
driveability and laggy response. 2.5” is sufficient for all street systems up to the high 300 HP levels. We r
2.5” from the Turbo back through a 2.5” catalytic under the car and exit through a 3” muffler. This gives
good response and sound while allowing a very free flow system. For now we supply the components to
do your own.

Cat Replacement pipe. (2.5”
Mandrel bent Downpipe.)

With 3 wire heated 02 sensor


With 1 wire replacement 02 sensor



A bolt on mandrel bent 2.5” downpipe to replace the stock pre
3 psi and 10
15 hp increase just
bolting it on. Has screw in O2 sensor port for
standard O2 sensors. We recommend using a 3 wire heated sensor.

CONQUEST. A Must Have….

Oxygen Sensors

1 wire O2 sensor


3 wire heated O2 sensor


3 wire heated 02 sensor with 2 bolt flange plate


Another thing to try with the stock F.I. system is to put a toggle switch across the input from the O2
sensor to the ECU ( just splice it in right where it plugs in in the engine compar
tment on the right
side above the ABS ) and turn the O2 off under hard driving and high boost conditions. This will
usually keep the car a bit richer as the O2 is not trying to correct the mixture.

3” Rear mufflers

All Stainless Steel Walker Ultra
Flow wi
th 3” chrome pencil tip


Galvanized Steel Walker Mega
Flow with 3” chrome pencil tip


High Flow Under Car Catalytic Converters.

2.5” Weld in


3” Weld in


Stock replacement exhaust manifold ( NEW.) Includ
es gasket )


Ported and stress relieved stock exhaust manifold


Longer life and better flow. A very cool part…..

Exhaust manifold for T3/T4


Ready to bolt

Exhaust manifold for T3/T4 for external wastegate


Standard Delta Gate or Race gate.

Stainless steel exhaust manifold gasket


Stainless steel Turbo flange gasket

For Mits Turbo


For T3/T4


2400 degree High Heat coating inside and out for any exhaust manifold


Engine Management , FCD’s and AIC systems:

Program your 86
87 Computer…


Must be done on your computer..3
4 day turnaround…Raises boost cut to 19 psi and extends
the fuel curve…Make your early ECU better then an 88
89 unit


Cut Defencer for 1983
1986 ONLY.


We promise you it will not work on the 1987 ECU. Don’t try it, you’ll be pissed.

Electromotive TEC
II management system.


All sensors and WinTec software.

Includes trigger wheel and mag pickup.

HALTECH F9A Fuel management system only


Complete with all sensors, software, and harness

HALTECh F9A unit specially configured to run your stock injectors


The easy and affordable way to programmable fuel control while eliminati
ng your Mass Air
Sensor and the other annoying and expensive Mits sensors. Retains stock igntion system and
fuel injectors


HALTECH E6A Fuel and Ignition management system


Complete with all sensors, software and wiring harness.

Machine Your C
rank pulley, mount trigger, fabricate trigger brackets For TEC


Complete 4 injector conversion using your Intake Manifold, Throttle body and Injector mixer
housing…Ready to bolt
on with 4 injectors, sensors, management system, Crank trigger as n
fuel rail, pump, regulator, etc…

With Electromotive TEC
2 system (your pulley needed for trigger.)


With Haltech F9A


Complete AIC system for Starion / Conquest ( all years )


Includes high flow over the valve
cover pipe with injector bosses installed

(2) Fuel injectors. Bosch racing fuel pump. HALTECH AIC controller computer

Wiring harness. Fuel fittings, hose, Etc. All bolt on.

AIC Controller Computer Only


Ignition System Gauges, and Misc. Do

8mm Accel Wire set


Super long life, very heat resistant and a great red color. Tailor made.

NGK Plug wire set


A great replacement wire at tune up time

Distributor Cap and Rotor


Bosch Red Coil


Our favorite high output ignition coil. Better than MSD Blaster

NGK BP7ES Spark Plugs

$1.99 ea.

One step colder than stock for higher than stock boost conditions

Oil filter Japanese replacement oil filter. Correct drainback style


Autometer Boost gauge


Mount in a cup or fit in stock dash location. Very visible gauge with a black face and orange pointer.

Engine parts and machine work:

We do have complete engine building services and can build you a complete engine
, a short block,
complete cylinder head, whatever you want. Call, Fax or e
mail what you are looking for and we will quote

Cylinder Heads / Prep / Camshafts, Intake Manifold and Throttle Body:

We offer the widest range of cylinder head replacements

and performance upgrade options for the 2.6
Mitsubishi engine in the world......These heads will work on the Starion Conquest as well as 2.6 truck
engines in the D50, Raider, Montero, Etc…

Anyone that has been working with the 2.6 for any length of time
know the cylinder heads were always the
weak link...They crack...More so on the Turbo cars but the trucks were not immune to the problem...One bit
of overheating and they cracked...For years we, as well as many other shops did crack repair on these
heads a
nd it was marginally successful....but expensive and they generally would just crack again in a


different cylinder a while later...The major culprit in this problem is the Jet Valves and the steel shroud in the
combustion chamber that housed them....This p
iece was a throwback to the emission control frenzy of the
70's and is no longer needed to pass Smog Inspections...This steel sleeve in the chamber gets extremely
hot and transfers that to the weak area between the seats causing them to crack over time....
A few years
ago we started supplying a new Non
Jet Valve casting made from a better alloy with extra cooling passages
and a stronger thicker area between the seats. Although you can still crack one of these new heads you
have to really put some effort into

it...This is NOT THE CARAVAN HEAD...it is a heavy duty casting designed
to cure the problem on the 2.6 Turbos and Truck line....

We get asked all the time for the Jet Valve Eliminator kits for the 2.6 and we do sell quite a few of them
($59.00 set of 4)
...They simply screw into the stock jet valve location and block off the passage but they do
not eliminate the steel shroud in the chamber that causes most of the problem.....If you are stuck using a jet
valve head these eliminators are still a good idea..
but it is by no means the same thing as having a TEP Non
Jet casting....This is the head we use on all of our performance engine build ups. We will never use an old
head on one of our performance engines....

New bare Non
Jet Valve Head:


ust like it sounds...The bare head with seats and guides installed with the rocker shaft/cam towers...
Ready to have a valve job done and be assembled with your old parts...You will need a head gasket
set with stem seals and new head bolts to complete the
job.You must replace head bolts everytime
you remove the head. If you do not..The bolts will be stretched, not take a torque and you will be doing

the job again very quickly...The exception to this is if you install the ARP head studs to replace the
..They can be re
used and have 5 times the holding strength of the bolts....

New Non
Jet Valve Head with new stock intake/exhaust valves and valve job:


As above but with the machine work done and 8 new valves. Just assemble with your old springs,

retainers, keepers, camshaft, rocker arms and shafts.You will need a head gasket set with stem
seals and new head bolts to complete the job..You must replace head bolts everytime you remove
the head. If you do not..The bolts will be stretched, not take a
torque and you will be doing the job
again very quickly...The exception to this is if you install the ARP head studs to replace the
bolts...They can be re
used and have 5 times the holding strength of the bolts....Stainless Steel Intake

and Exhaust valves
$19.95 each or $80.00 upgrade to any new head purchase that was using stock

Street Prepared Head:


As above but complete and assembled with NEW heavy duty valve springs, retainers, keepers,
camshaft (stock or performance cam)
valve stem seals, complete head gasket set with all needed
gaskets including heavy duty head gasket, and new heavy duty head bolt set......Stainless Steel
Intake and Exhaust valves $19.95 each or $80.00 upgrade to any new head purchase that was using
k valves....ARP Head stud upgrade when buying street prepared head $70.00


Components, Options, and Upgrades:

Street Port and Polish


Race port and polish with chamber cc (Not for street car use !!!!!!)


Match port Intake manifold

to head


ARP Head stud set to replace head bolts


(the best insurance against blown head gaskets.)

Stock replacement head bolts


Heavy Duty head bolts (stronger, but still cannot be re


Stud and

Nut set for Intake and Exhaust manifold to head


Exhaust manifold studs and nuts only


New Stock replacement camshaft for Turbo or Carb engine


Regrind your stock cam to performance specs


TEP Performance cam
shaft for Turbo and Hydraulic lifter rockers


TEP Performance camshaft for Turbo and Mechanical Adjuster rockers


TEP Performance camshaft for Carb and mechanical adjusters


Cylinder head rebuilding services:

These are the re
building services we offer for your existing head

Clean, Blast, Inspect for cracks and pressure test


3 Angle competition valve job with hand lap and back cut


Replace 8 valve guides (includes guide.)


Blanchard Grind

Head Surface


Replace seats (per each including seat.)


We no longer offer crack repair service..It is not worth it…The new heads cost less that rebuilding an old
one that will just crack again…

Match port intake manifold to h


Enlarge Stock Throttle body 5mm


Open up stock intake for big throttle body


Weld up and flow intake manifold under throttle body


Port upper throttle body (injector) housing


Remove / Wel
d water heat passages from intake manifold


Eliminates the hot water running through intake manifold. Ambient temp is high enough to keep the
manifold from freezing or the fuel puddling and dropping out.

RACE ONLY…We will not do this on a street


Rebuild your rocker assembly

Rebuilding rocker assemblies includes re
bushing rockers, refacing rockers and re
rocker shafts.






Adjustable timing gear ( + or

6 degrees )


3 angle racing valve job with hand lap and back cut on all valves


All new valve guides


Blanchard grind surface


Weld corroded water passages

Free when porting head. Otherwise


Valve lifters

k replacement hydraulic lifters

$12.00 Hardened
hydraulic lifters.

$16.00 ea.

Seem to be quieter and longer lasting in high RPM engines.

Head bolts.

You have to replace them every time the head is removed (Unless you already have the ARP stu
which can be re

Stock Replacement Head Bolts

$59.00 set

H/D Head bolts (10 lbs more torque than stock. )

$79.00 set

ARP Head Stud kit

$99.00 set

The best bit of insurance against blowing head gaskets. No block deck distorti
on. Spreads load
over head surface. Allows 80 ft.lb.Torque.

Heavy Duty Head Gasket


Better heat qualities than stock gasket. Composition style gasket. No Re
torque Needed

Complete Head gasket set with H/D Gasket


Cylinder head to
block dowels

$3.00 ea

Block Assembly and components:

Fortunately you are starting off with a very strong assembly. Other then raising the compression all
this work is for reliability and high rpm smoothness. As with the head section the items marke
d with an *
are what we recommend for a performance buildup that can withstand 400hp reliably for drag racing.
Endurance road race application with Rpm’s over 7500 for any length of time require a different approach.
If this is what you are doing with your

car call us for details.

Lightweight but extremely strong low expansion forged pistons in any oversize or compression ratio. We
use 8.0:1 +.040 overbore in all our engines unless someone wants a big bore or a stock compression
engine. Complete with light
weight wrist pins and pin fit for floaters. Con rod small ends should be bushed
for floater style wrist pins.

JE Piston Set and Total
Seal ring Combo

(.040 ove 8.0:1)


Any other bore size or compression ratio


JE Piston Set and Ha
stings Ring Combo


Forged JE Piston sets.


Lightweight but extremely strong low expansion forged pistons in any oversize or compression
ratio. We use 8.0:1 +.040 overbore in all our engines unless someone wants a big bore or a
compression engine. Complete with lightweight wrist pins and pin fit for floaters. Con rod small
ends should be bushed for floater style wrist pins.

Seal Piston Rings


The only real choice in piston rings. They cost a bit more
but they work a lot better.

Hastings piston rings


The best stock replacement rings available

High heat coating on piston tops and Moly coating on skirts

$49.00 ea


Hypereutectic replacement pistons.. Only available in stock compression


$59.00 ea

Std bore, .020,.030,.040 overbore available.

Hypereutectic package with Total
Seal rings


Hypereutectic package with Hastings rings


Race prepped connecting rods

$375.00 set

The stock rod is strong enough
for almost any use once it is prepared. Shot peened, beam
polished, resized big ends, small ends bushed for floaters, New rod bolts, magnafluxed, balanced.

Crankshaft index ground, micropolished and oil holes chamfered


Crankshaft Nitride hardened


Crankshaft Race Prepped


Index ground, Oil holes enlarged and chamfered, Weights detailed and de

Straightened and Nitride hardened, Micropolished

Block Work:

Hot tank, Magnaflux, bore, hone (with torque plate.) and



Balance shaft eliminator kit


Higher oil pressure, less parasitic drag, less timing stuff to buy

Timing chain kit for use with eliminator

Duty Timing chain, tensioner, rails, crank and cam gears


Balance sh
aft eliminator kit and timing kit combo


Complete timing kit for engines with balance shafts…


Everything…Chains, Guides, Tensioners, rails, gears, 100% complete

Electronically balance complete assembly from front pulley to clutch


High volume oil pump


Stock replacement oil pump


Clevite 77 Rod and Main bearing sets ( Std, .010, .020 )


Clevite77 Rod Bearings


Clevite77 Main bearings


Complete gasket

set with all seals and washers


Lower end gasket set only


Complete Engines:

We offer so many combinations of complete engines that it is impossible to list them all. Here are
some of the common combinations. All engine price
s are based on using your rebuildable core. If you
do not have a good core or you want to buy an engine outright with no exchange add $500.00 to the
pricing. You can then keep all your old stuff and keep driving your car while you wait for your new
to be built and shipped. All complete engine include our NEW Non
Jet valve head casting. We
will not build any complete engines using an old head core. We can also do any combination you
might want, contact us for pricing and details.

Performance Street E


Excellent street and occasional race use. Very reliable in the 350 HP range. Great for use with
T3/T4. 8.0:1 compression Forged JE pistons. Total
Seal rings. Rods rebuilt and bushed for
floaters with ARP rod bolts. Crank Turned and m
icropolished. New non
jet valve head casting.
Street ported and polished with ARP head studs. Street cam upgrade with H/D single valve


springs. Balance shaft eliminator with complete rotating assembly electronically balanced.
Lightened stock flywheel. All
new timing components and standard oil pump.

Add $80.00 for Stainless steel valves

Add $200.00 for Heavy Duty Street clutch when buying engine…

3 Engine:


Tilt street and drag race engine. For T3/T4 and NOS. Your choice of comp
ression ratio. JE
pistons, Total
Seals, race prepped rods, Race prepped crank, New head casting, Race Ported
and polished, Racing Camshaft and dual valve spring upgrades, ARP head studs and rod
bolts, Lightened flywheel with Pro
Grip Race clutch, Balance s
haft eliminator. Balanced and
blueprinted. All new timing components and high volume oil pump. Assembled valve cover to oil


For ceramic coating on pistons and valves add $200.00

Standard Street Rebuild:


This is the standard stuff we
do to rebuild a Starion/Conquest engine for reliable street use with
mild add on upgrades and no more then 12
14 psi boost with fairly small turbos

( Stock Turbo or Mits Sport 14G units ) Hypereutectic replacement pistons with Total
rings. Rods resiz
ed and ARP bolts installed. Crank turned and micropolished. Balance shafts
eliminated and complete assembly balanced. New Non
Jet Valve head casting. Stock
camshaft and H/D single valve springs. New H/D head bolts. Flywheel Lightened.

Short Block Assemb

If you already have a good cylinder head and just want the bootem end done we can rebuild and upgrade
you short block only….The short block is everything from the cylinder head down…Surface of the block to
the oil pan…We do include a full gasket set
with the short blocks so you can finish the assembly. They do
not include head bolts or head studs but do include all the timing components, oil pumps, etc…….

Standard street rebuild short block


Performance street short block



3 short block


Clutch and Flywheel:

You can make lots of HP but if the clutch slips it does no good. We offer our own Pro
Grip Race clutches
for street and race. All clutches are sold as complete assemblies with Plate, Disc, Release brg, and

brg. Discs are available individually. Available for both the early (225mm) and late (240mm) flywheels.

We also sell standard replacement clutch kits for every day cars without unusual power demands.

Stock replacement clutch.


All n
ew Daikin Japanese parts, No rebuilts. Good Stuff

Heavy Duty Street clutch


The same pressure plate as our Pro
Grip clutch but with a more streetable disc.

Street pressure Pro
Grip clutch kit

For street and occasional drag strip use. For

up to 275 hp


Race Pressure Pro
Grip clutch kit


Okay for street. A bit grabby but you’ll get used to it. Tested in repeated 12 sec runs.

Lightened stock flywheels.


This is the best combination of weight and inerti
a. A super lightweight flywheel will rev up faster but
it will not maintain boost between shifts and can cause surging at a steady light throttle. We lighten,


surface, step and zero balance your stock flywheel. We can usually get 10
11 lbs. Off and still
aintain plenty of strength.

New Flywheel bolts

$5.00 ea

Cooling System and Upgrades

The cooling system and fans are the cause of more grief and cracked cylinder heads. You must
make sure the cooling system is working properly. Contrary to popula
r belief a Starion does not run
hot. Even on a 100 degree Southern California afternoon with the A/C on it should not even get to ¾
on the gauge. The biggest problem we encounter is age. The radiators are getting old and are 15%
20% clogged. They work fine

until you start to make some HP then or get stuck in traffic on a hot day,
then up go the temp and there go the cylinder head. If your radiator has not been serviced any time in
recent history, take it to a radiator shop and have it professionally cleaned
. If the core is bad, replace
it or upgrade it.

EXTREME DUTY 2 Row Radiator Upgrade


This will cure your overheating problems. EXTREME DUTY Row core into stock tanks for a totally
in 40% increase in cooling capacity. Assuming we have any
cores at the time there is a
$150.00 core charge until we receive your old radiator back.

Cooling fan relay kit


We are very proud of this simple little upgrade. Uses your stock low temp fan switch but replaces
the rest of the stock electr
onic controls. Turns both inner fans on simultaneously with much more power
than the stock relays provide. Higher fan RPM and better cooling at lower temps. Also hooks the A/C fan
directly to the compressor to insure it comes on whenever the A/C is operati
ng. A must for cooling and the
life of you’re A/C components.

Upper and Lower Radiator hose set


Heater Hose set (2 hoses at rear of head.)


Belt set (AC, PS, Water pump belts)


Water pump




Suspension, Steering , Body, and Brakes

Although these cars handle and stop pretty good stock there is always room for improvement. As
you add more power and top speed the need for better stopping and handling becomes apparent. We offer
a v
ariety of options for street, strip, and autocross / road race use.

Front Air Dam for all Wide body Starions and Conquests…


Just like the 88
89 1 piece air dam..Replaces the terrible 3 piece unit on the 86
87 cars..This is an oversize
box and h
as a flat shipping charge of $25.00 in the lower 48 states..Cannot be shipped overseas due to
size limitations.

Steering Rebuild Components:

Inner Tie Rod Ends

Call or e
mail for current price

Outer Tie Rod Ends

Call or e
mail for current price

er Drag Link

Call or e
mail for current price

Idler arm (passenger side.)

Call or e
mail for current price

Pitman Arm (drivers side.)

Call or e
mail for current price

Ball Joints

Call or e
mail for current price

Lower control arm bushings

or e
mail for current price

Power Steering box rebuild kit

Call or e
mail for current price


Front Wheel bearing sets….


Both inner and outer front wheel bearings and seals for both sides..

Street / Autocross suspension

KYB Gas shocks

A de
cent stock replacement shock but don’t expect it to be much better than the originals…


$65.00 ea.

Rear $95.00 ea.

Tokico Gas Shocks. ( Standard valving )

The best replacement shock available for the Starion / Conquest



Rear $109.00 ea.

Sway bar set. 25mm front. 21mm rear.


Includes urethane bushings and mounting hardware…

Lowering Coil spring set. Lowers 1.25”


The perfect street and Auto
X spring…Does not lower the car too much an
d gives great ride quality and

Master Brake pad set

The best all around street pad available.





R4 Carbon Kevlar Street Pads

More aggressive than the metal master and also much dirtier on the wheels..Bet
ter for severe use and

Front $109.00

Rear $99.00

Stainless Steel brake line kit

(4 line set replaces the 8 stock rubber lines.)


Front Brake Rotors

$55.00 ea

Front Gas Slotted Brake Rotors

$109.00 ea

Rear Brake Rotors



Rear Gas Slotted Brake Rotors $123.00 ea

Autocross & Road Race:

Tokico Gas Shocks. ( special valving. More rebound dampening. )


$95.00 ea.

Rear $129.00 ea.

Sway bar set. 25mm front. 21mm adjustable rear

$425.00 pr.

21mm adjustable sway bar only


Front adjustable camber plates


Over springs and height adjusters for front


Rear Heavy duty race coils

$169.00 pr.

Height adjustable rear struts with coil
over springs

$600.00 pr.

R4 Carbon
Kevlar racing brake pads




Rear $139.00

Performance Parts Packages:

Street Engine Rebuild Package


4 New Hypereutectic Pistons. ( Std, .030, .040 over )

Seal Piston Rings

Balance Shaft Eliminator kit

Timing Component Kit for use with balance eliminator

Clevite 77 rod and main bearings

Head gasket set

Lower end gasket set

New Head bolts

Heavy Duty Valve spring set

TEP Camshaft Upgrade

New water pump

See next page


Drag Race Engine Rebuild Package


JE Forged 8.0:1 .040 over pistons

Seal Piston Rings

Clevite 77 rod and m
ain bearings

Head set and Lower End Set

Balance Shaft Eliminator kit with timing component kit

High Volume Oil Pump

Jet Valve Bare Head Casting

TEP camshaft upgrade with H/D valve spring set

ARP Head stud kit

New water pump


Street Strip Turbo Package


NEW 14G Sport Turbo

Stainless Steel Oil Feed Line

2.5" Downpipe with new 1 wire 02 sensor

Manual B
oost Controller



Intercooler Package


TEP Bolt
In Spearco Intercooler kit.

Intercooler plumbing kit to eliminate cloth hoses

Over the Valve Cover

Pipe with HKS Racing Bypass Valve


Performance Braking Package


Steel Braided Brake line kit

Repco Metal Master Front Pads

Repco Metal Master Rea
r Pads

Gas Slotted Front Brake Rotors


Performance Handling Package


Set of 4 TEP Lowering Springs

Set of 4 Tokico Gas Struts

Pair of Sway b
ars with all Urethne mounting bushings


See next page

Stage 1 Kit.....

300HP @ 18 psi 13.7 sec. @ 104 mph. Street tires

Complete T3 / T4 hybrid turbo upgrade.


"Super V" T4 compressor with a T3 turbine turbocharger.

New ported Max Flow cast iron exhaust manifold

New Steel braided oil feed line

New Dual pressure port internal wastegate ( 10 psi baseline
18 psi with VBC )

Mandrel bent racing downpipe to repla
ce stock pre

High flow air inlet pipe from your stock mass air sensor

New oil drainback pipe

Boost variable boost controller ( DEDUCT $40.00 IF YOU ALREADY HAVE ONE.)

TEP turbo camshaft upgrade.

Drop in hydraulic camshaft for stock head
s and springs, Idles great.

Also available for mechanical adjuster head.

Over the Valve Cover Pipe with HKS Racing Bypass Valve.

TEP O2 sensor upgrade.

HALMETER AF/30 Air fuel ratio indicator.

The best onboard instrument any turbo
car can have. Instantly lets


you know if you are leaning out and causing internal engine damage.

Find the optimum boost limit of your engine and fuel system without


Complete Stage
1 kit p
rice with everything shown above



1 Package

No Stages, No Compromises, No B.S. This is the finest power package you can install on your Starion or
Conquest. This comb
ination of bolt on parts and exhaust components is specifically designed for 88
89 (Or
87 with Upgraded ECU ) Starions and Conquests **. This package will give you the maximum HP available
in an otherwise stock engine. If your engine is old, worn out, smok
es like a freight train, has low oil pressure,
knocking balance shafts, etc, this package is not for you until you freshen up the engine. This combination is
capable of 325 hp in a good running stock Starion / Conquest. As

with every upgrade we offer you n
eed to make sure everything is in good working order before you proceed
with it. If you have a good running, non
overheating, no stumbles or stutters car that you want to drive out to
the drag strip and run at least a Mid
13 ¼ mile ( Maybe even better ) th
is is the system for you.

See next page

1 Kit Contents:

Complete T3/T4 Hybrid Turbo Conversion Package…

New T3/T4 Hybrid Turbocharger.***

Internal Wastegate Swingvalve Assembly.

Dual Port Wastegate Actuator.

Steel Braided Oil

Feed Line and Water Line Kit.

2.5" Downpipe with 3 wire 02 sensor.

3" Inlet pipe from Turbo to Mass Air Sensor.

Manual Boost Controller

Other Components…

TEP Camshaft Upgrade. New Billet camshaft.

2.25" Over The Valve Cover pipe w
ith HKS Racing Bypass Valve.

Intercooler Upgrade. Spearco 3.5" Core. Bolt in unit with needed plumbing.

Mandrel Bent Intercooler Plumbing kit with Silicone Couplers.

Halmeter AF/30 Air Fuel Ratio Monitor.

Bosch Racing Fuel Pump

tech Adjustable Rising Rate Fuel Regulator


K&N Air Filter for Stock Air Box

2.5" High Flow Catalyst for under car****

3" Walker Mega
Flo Rear muffler and 3" Chrome Tip.****

Complete package: One big bundle of HP in a cardboard box. $3500.0
0 + $60.00 UPS Shipping

** Yes it can be used on a 1986 but due to the poor fuel volume on these cars it will be mandatory to use our
AIC system to insure adequate fuel volume. Add $750.00 to kit price for AIC kit.

*** Ceramic Ball Bearing Turbo Upgrade.

Add $525.00

****Does not include piping. You have the 2.5" pipe installed locally from our Downpipe back.